This sensational leg of the trip began with the drive from Kakadu to Mataranka via a quick shop in Katherine. As the cars headed southward there was much discussion and reflection on the past two weeks and just how wonderful and eventful they had been. The sudden realisation that we were now headed in the direction of home was quite a sombre one and Sarah and I have seriously been considering ways that we could take a year off in the future to do a full lap of this magnificent country. This would be in a few years when our kids are old enough to remember it. (Don't read too much into that last statement...nothing on the cards at this stage)
Many people had recommended both the Mataranka Homestead and Bitter Springs as excellent places to stay when in this area. The flexibility of not having to book allowed us the freedom to stay one night at both. We are so used to having to book weeks, sometimes months or even a year in advance to ensure that we are allocated a site at some places. This is only because we are usually restricted to holidaying during school holidays. Not being tied to bookings is a new and very refreshing way to travel for us.
A short walk from our set up at Mataranka Homestead led us to the thermal pools; a 28 degree, naturally spring fed pool that is open to the public for swimming. The water was crystal clear and there were a few people enjoying the pools when we were there. It was strange not having the feeling of getting cold in this water; you just don't feel the need to get out.
That evening both families decided that we would head to Malukas Bar for the evening's entertainment. I don't think that anything could really epitomise the Australian Outback like Nathan Griggs, World Champion Whip Cracker. Yes, he holds the world record for the most amount of whip cracks in 60 seconds; with the grand total being a whopping 530. That's...almost 9 cracks per second. His show was entertaining and we all had a good laugh.
The following morning we awoke, packed the vans and drove the 10 kilometres to Bitter Springs. The park itself had very nice, shady sites and the amenities were basic, yet clean. The Springs, however, were far better than the ones at Mataranka Homestead. Once again, they were a naturally spring fed system that measured a very comfortable 32 degrees. Going by the recommendations of many who had trekked her before us, we entered the spring at one end with pool noodles and just rode the current to the other end where there was a ladder and a short walk back to the start. This operation was repeated several times over the course of the afternoon and the following day. What a sensational place! The water is pristine, warm and it is hard to fathom that it is naturally occurring. We enjoyed the place so much that we decided to sneak an extra swim in the next morning before we left.
That night we bid farewell to our travelling companions as we parting ways the following morning. Without sounding too sentimental, it was great to have shared these experiences with our good friends. We have all agreed that we shall do it all again as soon as possible.
Following our final swim at Bitter Springs we drove to the outback's most famous pub; The Daly Waters Pub. Now, when pondering something that is quintessentially 'Australian', it is difficult to ignore this place once you have been here. It would have to be the most laid back, yet uniquely set up places I have ever seen. Everywhere you look the place is adorned with all manners of used clothing, different currency denominations, sports jerseys, old tools, used thongs, hats, business cards, ID cards and the list goes on. It really is a sight you must see. One thing is for sure, the Australian culture of light-hearted larrikin-ism and "She'll be right mate" is alive and well here.
Apparently, when one visits this place one must order the very famous "Beef n Barra" meal. So popular is this delicacy, that the earliest sitting we could book in for was at 7:00pm. The wait was worth it though. The meal was delicious.
The entertainment for the evening was an elderly gentleman playing all of the "hits" from the 60s. As we were about to leave Ebony decided that she was going to don her dancing shoes and tear up the dance floor. She was the only one there dancing, but EVERYONE was watching. At the end of the song the applause erupted and the beaming eyes and ecstatic smile convinced mum and dad to let her continue her routine for a couple more songs. Soon enough, a few more toddlers joined her and she enjoyed her time in the limelight. A great night.
The following day we awoke, packed up and left for King Ash Bay; just outside Borroloola. The campgrounds are run by the fishing club and there isn't a lot to do but rest, relax and unwind; unless you have a boat. The area draws many a keen fisherman every year and there are weekly competitions at the bar for the largest fish of different species.
Whilst there we drove to the town of Borroloola and checked out the Museum there. The history of this place is interesting and it holds the record of the oldest police station in the Northern Territory. The museum is run by volunteers and tales of hardship experienced by the men and women don the walls and displays. The most interesting exhibit at the museum was that of Ludwig Leichart's tree, which was cut down in Cooktown and transported to Borroloola in 1986.
While we were in town we decided to go to the primary school there; only out of curiosity. As a teacher, it is always interesting and refreshing to learn from others' practice. The Assistant Principal kindly gave us a tour of the school and we enjoyed visiting all of the different classrooms and seeing the students learn. Apparently as a principal you get 6 months holiday every 2 years of working there...
The rest of the time at King Ash Bay was spent fishing, relaxing and playing with Ebony. Not having a boat was a severe hinderance, but I managed to catch several catfish. I doubt that there would be many barramundi near the campground. Still, the relaxed atmosphere was very enjoyable.
Today we left early to make the trek to Barkly Homestead for a night before a few nights at Mt. Isa where we will be meeting up with my parents. The drive through the Tablelands Highway was a difficult one at times with most of it being a single lane. The road trains coming the other way certainly don't move over for you, so you must get off the road completely. I understand that, as it is much easier and safer for a car and caravan to do so. However, it does get tense when you see the imposing beasts coming the other way when rounding a corner. The road itself was of pretty poor quality and Sarah aptly likened it to a "Patchwork Quilt".
Some parts, however, were better kept and we enjoyed the nostalgic horizon to horizon beauty of 'nothingness'.
Tomorrow we are all very much looking forward to reuniting with the Golivers.
More soon!
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