What an amazing 5 days! Australia's largest and arguably best known National Park certainly lived up to its name. It was great to get back to nature and explore some of the most incredible natural structures with Ranger Ebony again. Our good friends joined us for this leg of the trip, which certainly made the time all the more enjoyable; especially the evenings...not so much the mornings after.
We hitched up and left Darwin early on the first morning as we wanted to have a good look at one of the attractions in the afternoon. A quick, 220km trek along the Arnhem Highway led us to the town of Jabiru and the Bowali Visitors Centre, where we purchased our $50 pass for Kakadu.
The visitor centre is very well set up with plenty of information, a cafe and a walk through museum.
We checked in at Kakadu Lodge just after 11:00am and we were told just to pick a spot where we like. Vans in the park were scarce, so we managed two sites in between the pool and the amenities. Unfortunately, a few nests of green ants also saw the value in these particular sites so our friend's annex was inundated with them the following morning.
Once we had un-hitched and set up we made our way to Nourlangie to check out the Indigenous rock art there. The artwork is spectacular and a short walk to the lookout there was a nice, easy way to stretch the legs.
Following that Sarah, Ranger Ebony and I completed the Anbangbang Billabong walk, which was a pleasant 2.5km loop walk. It was great to see so much wildlife there and we witnessed a whistling kite dive bombing a group of ducklings with the clearly distraught mother and father desperately doing anything they could to deter the predator.
That evening we sat, socialised and pitied upon the poor Victorians suffering the terrible cold weather. What a shame we had missed it...
The following morning Dave and I awoke very early to attempt something that both of us had dreamed of doing for many years; we were going to attempt to catch the infamous barramundi. One could best describe us as amateur, yet passionate fisherman who love nothing more than to wet a line with good company and a cool refreshment. Many of our 'boys' trips often involve traversing the banks of the Murray River in search of the ever illusive Murray Cod amongst others.
This time, however, we had secured a morning tour with a local company. Our esteemed guide was the most passionate, fish-crazy person I had ever met. He lived and breathed for fishing. Nothing more. He picked us up out the front of the caravan park at 6:00am and we drove to the East Alligator River where we launched the boat.
The sun hadn't risen yet and visibility was poor. So when our guide asked us to stand at the river's edge holding the rope that connects to the boat, you can imagine how nervous we were. The nerves were justified when we soon spotted our first of many estuarine crocodiles for the expedition.
Our nerves soon settled and we began to enjoy trawling and casting for our prize. I had unfortunately snagged my lure on some sort of submerged obstacle and was busy trying to retrieve it when the telltale splash occurred. Dave had hooked one and reeled it in. Measuring 58cm it was legal and thus became dinner for that evening. The look of pure joy and elation was evident.
Eventually I was lucky enough to feel the snap of a hungry fish take my lure and I was able to reel it into the boat. (Phew!) To have not caught a fish would have meant a year of certain ridicule from my friends who all try to out do each other when it comes to fishing. This one came in at 43cm, so back he went for another day. Apparently, the best time for barramundi fishing is during the months of April and May known as the "Run Off".
That evening, we attempted to emulate the famous Daly Waters Pub meal of Beef and Barra. I kid you not, it was the best barramundi I have ever eaten. A few refreshing drinks to wash it down with made for the end of another great day.
Day three at Kakadu had us topping up on some essentials from the local supermarket. While there I learnt a bit about the six seasons of Kakadu according to the local Indigenous folk. I am only used to Ballarat's seasons of "Summer" and "Very, Very Cold" with the latter lasting about 9 months of the year...
The 6 seasons go something like this:
June-July : Wurrgeng (Cold Weather Season) Try living in Ballarat!
August - September: Gurrung (Hot dry weather season)
October - Novermber: Gunumeleng (Pre-monsoon storm season)
December - March: Gudjewg (Monsoon Season)
April - May: Banggerreng (Knock em down storm season)
May - Start of June: Yegge (Cold but still humid season).
That afternoon we all drove back to East Alligator and completed the Bardedjilidji Walk; a 2.5km easy trek that allows for some exploration of caves and naturally formed structures. The kids certainly enjoyed walking up, down around and through while Ebony informed us all of the ever present Very Cranky Bear. (Apparently, the Very Noisy Bear has been released so we will be sure to get our hands on a copy soon...)
While at East Alligator, Dave and I decided to drive across Cahill's Crossing...for no other apparent reason than the fact that we were there and it was a VERY long drive should we want the opportunity to complete it at a later date. You do need a permit to enter Arnhem Land, so we made the crossing back to Kakadu.
Once everyone was back in the cars we drove to Ubirr for the highly recommended sunset; and it was sensational. A very easy climb rewards you with a spectacular view of the escarpment into Arnhem Land and beyond. We were joined by about one hundred other eager tourists, some with tripod and SLR handy, others just enjoying the view. Either way, everyone seemed mesmerised by the light show.
The next morning we had decided on a longer day out. Seeing as both families had spent their hard earned on buying and modifying four wheel drives, it would only seem silly not to take the self-drive tour to Jim Jim and Twin falls. The drive to get there from Jabiru is lengthy and given my time again I would have camped closer, but we still managed to get in and marvel at both of these splendid attractions whilst having a bit of fun on the drive in.
Jim Jim falls is Kakadu's highest waterfall with a drop of approximately 200 metres with 150 of those visible from the bottom.. (Australia's highest waterfall is Wallaman Falls in QLD measuring a mighty 300m drop) The trek in was difficult with many large boulders sporadically placed for the final 500 metres or so. The trek is marked at 900 metres, but it is more like 1.7 km if you want to walk to the base of the falls. As technical and steep as the walk was, the reward was certainly well-worth it.
Due to the fact that we were in the middle of the dry season, the water was but a mere trickle. However, the 150 metres of surrounding rock face certainly made for some spectacular viewing.
After making the trek back and fueling our bodies with some much needed energy, we drove to Twin Falls. The road in requires you to complete a short river crossing, which was 0.7m when we did it - Great fun!
Thankfully, the Twin Fall trek was much easier. A quick 400m flat walk takes you to a quaint mooring point where $12.50 per adult will allow you a 20 minute cruise along the gorge. Swimming has been disallowed in the area for the past 12 years and the quality of the water certainly reflects this. Crystal clear waters allowed us to see a range of different fish, a freshwater crocodile and the rare pig-nosed turtle.
Our guide on the boat explained that the reason for the swimming ban was due to failed attempts at preventing estuarine crocodiles from entering the area in the past. He added a story about Parks NT harpooning a 4 metre crocodile that had managed to enter the area. Apparently the rangers held the harpoon while the crocodile dragged the boat from one end of the gorge to the other, where he tried to escape down the creek there.
A short walk from the other side and we were at the falls. They weren't as spectacular as Jim Jim, however they were flowing. After a lengthy drive back to camp, we started packing up ready to move to Cooinda the following day.
Hitching up the following morning and dropping the van at Cooinda Lodge had all occured by 10:00am. Unfortunately, we weren't allowed to check in until 11, so the fridge was set to GAS on the Expanda and we took the drive to Gunlom falls.
The plunge pool itself had been closed for two days prior, but the lure of that natural infinity pool that is sprawled across the front of most of the Northern Territory's tourist magazines and websites was just something that we were not prepared to miss. We were justly rewarded for the steep climb.
What a view! Wow! I won't write too much about this place but rather the pictures do the talking.
The final morning at Kakadu we awoke a 5:30, got dressed and prepared to embark on the 6:45am sunrise Yellow Waters tour. My word, it was worth it! I cannot remember in all of my limited years ever experiencing a place teeming with such an abundance of wildlife. Brolgas, estuarine crocodiles, jabiru, egrets, kingfishers, rainbow bee eaters, barramundi, white bellied sea eagles and much, much more. Everywhere we looked there was something amazing to see. Due to the fact that we had chosen the sunrise tour, we all received a buffet breakfast back at Cooinda; a splendid way to end what has been a truly magical time.
We made the trek after finishing breakfast to Mataranka, where we will spend the next two days enjoying the natural thermal springs. As I write this my mind is busy conjuring the thoughts of the many people who have referred to Kakadu as "KakaDON'T". However, after spending 5 nights there I am inclined to disagree. Having a 4wd certainly helps you explore the harder to reach areas, but our time in Kakadu has been a very memorable one. The local indigenous people apparently never say "goodbye", but rather say "Thank you" and "See you again" when parting. I think this sums it up nicely for us.
More soon!
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