Aaaaaannnnd...we're home!!!!

Well folks, after 13350 kilometres, 2303.31 litres of fuel and 56 amazing and incredible nights away, we are finally home.  This will be a relatively short post as there really isn't much to report on. 

We awoke on the final morning of our trip to a slight drizzle and a temperature reminiscent of the day we left.  The Prado engine sparked to life and we were on the road by 6:45 that morning.  By comparison, we had a very short, 220km drive home and it went very quickly.  

The nearer we got to home, the more apparent the realisation that our trip was coming to an end became.  In my mind I was reliving the trip from location to location; from Burra through to Moama.  

We arrived at our home just after 9:30am.  The lawns were terribly overgrown, but apart from that it was just as we left it.  Opening the door was an odd sensation and it felt like we had been away for a matter of months, not weeks.  I guess with the multitude of places that we had been and things we had experienced, this was something to be expected.  

We spent the rest of the day unpacking and scrubbing the van from top to toe.  The Central Australia red is an extremely stubborn stain that has managed to find its way to most of the surfaces of the van.  Personally, I think that it adds character :) 

That night I had prepared a simple slide show of some of the better photos from our trip to show Sarah.  We sat there in silence reliving what we had just experienced.  It is funny just how quickly the 'little' details fade from memory.  I think we will revisit these photos from time to time and some of them we are keen to get enlarged to hang on the walls of our home.  

So...what can I say?  What an amazing and fulfilling adventure we have had.  Without an iota of a doubt, this has been the best thing we have ever done.  Sarah and I both agree that while there have been some wonderful times in our lives, we certainly feel that we are the happiest we have been in a very long time.  The trip has certainly brought us closer together as a family and has given us the motivation to do many more. 

Our amazing daughter and fearless leader, Ranger Ebony, has continued to leave us beaming with pride at her interest and enjoyment of the great outdoors.  It was also great to have met up with our friends, Tan and Dave, and my parents along the way.  We have made some truly special memories that have enriched our lives and served as a reminder to what is truly special and important in life.         

We have been overwhelmed with the amount of people who have taken the time out of the very busy lives that society has come to expect of us, to follow our adventures.  It has been great to get so many messages and phone calls from friends and relatives.  Thank you for that.  We hope you have enjoyed reading the blog and seeing all of our pictures.  

Finally, if you happen to be reading the blog and find yourself wondering whether you could attempt a trip like this I would not hesitate in giving you a push out the door. You won't regret it!  

Charleville, Bourke and Moama

The final frontier!  I simply cannot believe that this trip of truly life-changing proportions is about to come to an end.  Still...we had an enjoyable yet long drive back to our home state of Victoria.  

We woke to another beautiful outback sunrise and drove to Charleville for the night.  Nothing too exciting happened along the way, but Ebony has discovered Emma's CD; as in the Wiggle Emma.  Not sure if I prefer her solo act or just the Wiggles music that we had become so accustomed to listening to.  Gee I am looking forward to listening to MY music again! 

Another early morning departure from Charleville saw us arrive in the famous outback town of Bourke, NSW by lunchtime.  Having completed the crossing of the border into New South Wales meant that we were into our 5th and final state/territory of our trip.  We had planned for two nights in Bourke, mainly just to have a rest day in between transits to home.  

The first night we decided to crank up the trusty old Weber for a pizza night; just the three of us.  We also took the rods down to the Darling river to wet a line.  Nothing came from the fishing apart from a couple of bites, but it was relaxing and enjoyable nonetheless.  

The following day we took a drive to town and visited the Back O' Bourke Exhibition Centre and had a coffee at the Cafe there.  Due to the overwhelming feeling that we were so close to being home we just weren't interested in doing anything "touristy", so the Cafe visit satisfied our needs.     

That afternoon after Ebony's much needed nap we took a drive along the Darling River and found a nice spot to fish and relax by the water.  Sarah and I both managed to contribute to preserving the Murray Darling Basin by making a small dent in the carp population.  Ebony was happy watching and playing hide and seek.  It was a nice afternoon and evening to spend with my family.  

Today we awoke early after having the unfortunate experience of a 2am wake up call by a group of dirt bikers who had decided to make the most of Friday night (and Saturday morning!) by engaging in some lively conversation and banter outside of their cabins.  Hmmmm..... I think my last glance at the clock was at 4:00am.  Those poor fellows.  I mean, they must have just lost track of time.  Going to sleep at 4:00am would have made it extra hard for them to get up the next morning.  Being the good Samaritan that I am, I made sure that I gave them all a long and loud toot of the Prado horn as we drove out at 6:45am this morning.  I am sure that they appreciated it :)

As we drove further and further south, familiarity in the landscape returned.  Eucalyptus, wattle and canola returned and the feeling of nostalgia hit both Sarah and me.  

We made it to Moama tonight and will be home early tomorrow morning.  I think that I will write one more blog post in the next few days just to summarise and collect my thoughts.  

Needless to say...this has been one epic adventure.  

More Soon!! 

    

Bomber Bear's Final Challenge!

The final challenge for this epic adventure is as follows:

"There is an old saying that goes with Bourke.  We're wondering if you could find it on a sign somewhere."

Well..let me see......

      Maybe we could find it here? 

      Or here?

   

       Or here???

      Or maybe even here???? lol

Challenge Complete! 

Challenge 9

This week's challenge was the following:

"What is the Aboriginial name for this National Park?  Can you share some of the heritage in the form of a photograph for us?"

The Aboriginal name for Lawn Hill National Park is Boodjamulla, which is synonymous with the name for the rainbow serpent according to the language of the local indigenous people; the Waanyi People.  

Bomber Bear loved exploring this area, but there was just so much to see and do he will have to visit the area again.  

          Bomber Bear took a leisurely cruise along the Middle Gorge of Boodjamulla; powered by Mr O power.  

        Safe and secure from freshwater crocodiles.  

     "I believe I can fly" 

Challenge Complete!

 

Adels Grove and Lawn Hill National Park

Adels Grove and Lawn Hill National Park

Well...what a fantastic and memorable place that was our final major destination before begrudgingly making our way back home.  Lawn Hill National Park was certainly the "Gem of Queensland's North West" and we certainly couldn't fault the serene and relaxing tranquility of Adels Grove.  

We were exceptionally fortunate that the road into Adels Grove had been graded the day prior to making the trek, so I probably didn't need to drop the tyre pressures.  It was only a mere 90 kilometres from Gregory Downs to our destination, so a relaxed morning and leisurely pack up marked the start of the day.  It was sad to say goodbye to Gregory as we had all felt so relaxed there.  

When camping at Adels, you have a choice of areas to camp in; the "Generator Area" or "The Grove".  Neither areas have power, but seeing as we don't have a generator, we had opted for the Grove as our place to stay.  My word, what a wonderful little bush oasis!  The entire area is canopied by lush vegetation, which has deliberately been kept in as much of its original form as possible.  Lining the Grove is a beautiful creek area where you can swim, kayak or even fish.  Fires are allowed if you supply your own timber. They also boast a bar and bistro.  Oddly and fortunately, there weren't too many people camped when we arrived.  We had passed a few vans heading out of Lawn Hill on the way in.  Once again, the area was on a "Just Find a Site" basis, so we quickly found prime position for us and the Golivers to set up.    

        Our camp at Adels Grove.  

Adels Grove has an interesting history with its name being derived from a french botanist Albert DE LeStang, who was commissioned by the Government of the 1930s to experiment with the cultivation of different exotic plants and fruits.  It is said that by 1939 he had in excess of a thousand different species of plant life growing in the area.  Unfortunately, all of Lestang's records, much of his planted grove and history were all lost to a fire in the 1950s.  He passed away a short time after that.  Such a sad story, but naming the area ADELS certainly perpetuates his importance and significance to the area.  

That afternoon, we launched the Hobie in the nearby creek that adjoins Adels Grove.  Ebony just loved being on the water and there was an abundance of wildlife to spot including a freshwater crocodile.  It is hard to describe the colour of the water at Adels Grove; it is something between cloudy-green and aqua.  Just beautiful.  

The following morning we were keen to employ the services of Ranger Ebony again, so we made for Lawn Hill National Park and began the Island Stack Walk; a 4km trek with superb panoramic views of the lower gorge.  Dad joined us for this walk, which was great and he brought his 500mm prime lens and D4s Nikon DSLR camera along just in case an ornithological photo opportunity should arise.  Between Ranger Ebony's backpack and dad's camera, we are almost guaranteed to pique the interest of the fellow traveller.  If it wasn't a "Gee she (Ebony) has gotten the better end of the deal...can I trade places?" it was a "That's a serious looking camera."  

During the walk we caught our first glimpse of Lawn Hill Gorge.  What stunning natural beauty.  We were sure going to enjoy our time at this place!  

That afternoon we took Ebony for a quick swim in the creek back at Adels.  This was short lived, as the water was just a little too cold for her and the shade provided by the Grove keeps the temperatures down.  When I say down, I mean cool, you know?  Around 27 degrees or so...

That evening was met with another camp fire, good food and many laughs with the folks.  

Morning came and we awoke early for another bushwalk.  This time the "Constance Range" beckoned; a 4km trek which involved a moderate climb but rewarded us with spectacular panoramic views of the south range.  The wildlife was interesting on this walk also with a number of geckos, lizards and birds moving about.  

Ebony reluctantly succumbed to a nap and once awake, we launched the Hobie in Lawn Hill Gorge.  This is an absolute must do if you're in the area and it remains among the top 5 of our experiences for this trip.  Sarah, Ebony and I...actually...it was really just me doing the pedalling, but we all certainly enjoyed the sheer cliffs and magnificent colours of nature as we moved through the Middle Gorge.  

At the end of the gorge is Indarri Falls, which were flowing at the time we were there.  We managed to exit the Hobie and carry it about 50 metres to another launching area where we continued on and explored the Upper Gorge area.  This time pandanus trees lined the edges of the water and more wildlife was there to share the gorge with us.  The trip was approximately 6km return and was just spectacular.  Whilst nowhere near the size nor scale of Nitmiluk Gorge, Lawn Hill certainly rivals it in terms of beauty and serenity. We certainly appreciate the generosity of my parents in allowing us to borrow the Hobie to experience what we have at Lawn Hill.  It was just amazing.  

That night...another fire...more laughs...good times! 

The next morning we awoke with the sombre realisation that it was our final day at Adels Grove.  It was also going to be the final time Ranger Ebony suited up as it was our final bushwalk.  This time it was the Indarri Falls and Duwadarri Lookout walks, which totalled about 3.8 kilometres.  These walks provide the most breathtaking views of all the ones that we had done at Lawn Hill, so it was great that we had saved the best ones until last.  The Upper Gorge area was closed for some reason, which has given us another reason to return one day.  

We decided that afternoon to visit the bar at Adels Grove for a drink with the folks before returning to camp to light a fire and enjoy our last meal together.  Mum had offered to cook caramel dumplings for dessert, which was enough to make the harshest culinary critic's mouth water.  Saying farewell to my parents was saddening for all of us as we had certainly enjoyed their company during this leg of our trip and their knowledge of the Australian bush, especially all things ornithological is, in our opinion, unrivalled.  I think Ebony will miss them the most. She has just loved spending time with her Nan and Grandpa and I think her favourite memory may have been teaching her Grandpa how to do ballet.  It was a sight to see... 

       3 Generations of Nomads; Grey, Young and Baby? 

I must say that I have been impressed with the performance of both the Expanda and the Prado.  We have been camping without power for 6 nights in total now and both the batteries are sitting at about 60%; that is with all manner of use including lights, water pump, fridge and charging iPads and phones.  The car battery got a 10km or so drive to Lawn Hill each day, but not a lot more charging than that.  We have certainly grown to appreciate "off the grid" camping during this trip and I can see us doing a lot more of it in the future.  

Today we awoke early, packed the van, said our final farewells to the Golivers and began the long trip home.  With no real plans for where to stay, we have decided a free camp just out of Winton is the spot for tonight.  Ebony has been fantastic today with no whinging and lots of laughs and conversations.  

A slightly nostalgic outback sunset and nice meal and I am about ready for bed.  Tomorrow we will head for Charleville and then onto Bourke for a couple of nights.      

More soon!  

      

Mount Isa and Gregory Downs

Mount Isa and Gregory Downs

Over the last few days and nights we have enjoyed exploring Queensland's northwest with some good company and, once again, great weather.  Our trip is almost at the conclusion of its seventh week and we have hardly seen a single cloud in the sky the entire trip let alone rain.  I can't imagine what we are going to do when we get home.  

The clock had just passed the strike of 1 when we arrived in Mount Isa.  The drive in was fairly uneventful apart from the rudimentary crossing of the border.  We bid farewell to the Northern Territory; a place that we had spent a truly enriching 5 and a half weeks and entered Queensland from the west.  We vowed to be back one day soon! 

I had read that Mount Isa was a fairly large mining town and the continual appearance of road trains certainly confirmed this.

The "Golivers" had arrived an hour before us and were set up when we arrived.  Hugs and handshakes were shared before we quickly set up and sat down together to talk about our travels and escapades around the country.  Pretty soon happy hour was nigh and we enjoyed a nice meal together; the first of many.  

The following day we were in desperate need of a restock; of everything from shampoo to swimming nappies.  Mount Isa boasts a very well equipped shopping district, so we managed to find everything that we needed there.  Due to the remoteness of our recent travels, we had resorted to frozen vegetables and canned fruit as we weren't able to buy any fresh produce for a while, so it was a welcome sight to see the supermarket.  

That evening we all travelled to nearby Lake Moondarra for a spot of fishing and a drink.  Despite being a man made lake and dam, it was quite a pretty place and it was very nice sitting by the waters edge wetting a line and wetting our whistles, so to speak.  Unfortunately, the bait I bought at the BCF in Mount Isa didn't yield any catch, but we still enjoyed the time there.

The following morning, my father and I decided to awake early and launch his Hobie kayak in the lake.  With dad being a semi professional birdlife photographer (self confessed ;)) and me being a much more amateur fisherman we figured that we could both satisfy our interests at the same time.  Unfortunately for me, the fish just weren't biting.  Being the cold part of the year, it was not surprising.  It was a nice two hour paddle around nonetheless and we did manage to see a freshwater crocodile and a plethora of different birdlife. 

The rest of the time at Mount Isa was spent either shopping, swimming in the very cold swimming pool and socialising with my folks.  It was a great little stay and I would go back there in the warmer months for sure.  There were a couple of tourist attractions there that we thought about visiting, but in the end we decided to leave it for the next visit. The four wheel drive tracks that I had a look at also beckoned, but not this time.  

The morning of the 12th saw us rise early and take the drive east to Cloncurry and then north to the little town of Gregory where my folks had suggested we stay.  What a beautiful place!  Without a doubt, this is the most serene and peaceful free camp that we have ever stayed at.  It is very popular here and you can see why!  The pandanus lined river edge and the abundance of birdlife make this place an absolute gem. As you will see from the photos, the Prado and Expanda are situated at the water's edge.  Absolute river frontage.  And...it's free to stay here.  

Apparently there is a little bit of controversy surrounding this place with the publican of the local hotel petitioning against people staying here; an issue that is becoming more and more ubiquitous in Australia.  Without delving into my thoughts on the issue too much, I guess I just hope that Ebony can one day visit and camp at this place with her kids.

We spent most of our time here either sitting by the water's edge, throwing rocks into the water with Ebony or swimming downstream on pool noodles and then walking back up only to repeat it again.  The current in the river here is quite strong. So strong in fact, that it become almost like a natural water slide of sorts that you can enjoy, provided that you don't get pushed into one of the pandanus trees.  

By nightfall we were toasting marshmallows with Ebony and gazing at the ever awe inspiring display of stars in the night sky.  From the comfort of our caravan we could hear the soothing sounds emanating from the constant trickling of river water flowing downstream and beyond.  Ahhh!  It was, once again, great to be alive.  

Tomorrow we make the 90km trek from here into Adels Grove in Lawn Hill National Park.  We have been very excited to visit this remote place and it will be good to have Ranger Ebony back in the saddle for some bushwalks.  The last 50 kilometres or so are dirt roads and we have heard conflicting stories about how rough the track is.  We handled the Mereenie Loop, so I am sure that we will be fine here!  

More soon.  

  

Challenge 8

The next challenge had only one clue....."Dam!!!".

Bomber Bear awoke early one morning and made the treck to Lake Moondarra with Mr O and Mr O Senior. 

He boarded hte mightly cruise ship "The Black Bittern" and enjoyed a leisurely float around this man made lake/dam.  

            Can you see Bomber Bear here? 

      Bomber bear had a go at fishing, but nothing was biting that morning.  

He saw a couple of fresh water crocodiles on his cruise, along with a heap of different birds.  

Challenge complete!  

Mataranka, Daly Waters and King Ash Bay

This sensational leg of the trip began with the drive from Kakadu to Mataranka via a quick shop in Katherine.  As the cars headed southward there was much discussion and reflection on the past two weeks and just how wonderful and eventful they had been.  The sudden realisation that we were now headed in the direction of home was quite a sombre one and Sarah and I have seriously been considering ways that we could take a year off in the future to do a full lap of this magnificent country. This would be in a few years when our kids are old enough to remember it.  (Don't read too much into that last statement...nothing on the cards at this stage)

Many people had recommended both the Mataranka Homestead and Bitter Springs as excellent places to stay when in this area.  The flexibility of not having to book allowed us the freedom to stay one night at both.  We are so used to having to book weeks, sometimes months or even a year in advance to ensure that we are allocated a site at some places.  This is only because we are usually restricted to holidaying during school holidays. Not being tied to bookings is a new and very refreshing way to travel for us.  

A short walk from our set up at Mataranka Homestead led us to the thermal pools; a 28 degree, naturally spring fed pool that is open to the public for swimming.  The water was crystal clear and there were a few people enjoying the pools when we were there.  It was strange not having the feeling of getting cold in this water; you just don't feel the need to get out.  

That evening both families decided that we would head to Malukas Bar for the evening's entertainment.  I don't think that anything could really epitomise the Australian Outback like Nathan Griggs, World Champion Whip Cracker.  Yes, he holds the world record for the most amount of whip cracks in 60 seconds; with the grand total being a whopping 530.  That's...almost 9 cracks per second.  His show was entertaining and we all had a good laugh.  

The following morning we awoke, packed the vans and drove the 10 kilometres to Bitter Springs.  The park itself had very nice, shady sites and the amenities were basic, yet clean.  The Springs, however, were far better than the ones at Mataranka Homestead.  Once again, they were a naturally spring fed system that measured a very comfortable 32 degrees. Going by the recommendations of many who had trekked her before us, we entered the spring at one end with pool noodles and just rode the current to the other end where there was a ladder and a short walk back to the start.  This operation was repeated several times over the course of the afternoon and the following day.  What a sensational place!  The water is pristine, warm and it is hard to fathom that it is naturally occurring.  We enjoyed the place so much that we decided to sneak an extra swim in the next morning before we left.  

That night we bid farewell to our travelling companions as we parting ways the following morning.  Without sounding too sentimental, it was great to have shared these experiences with our good friends.  We have all agreed that we shall do it all again as soon as possible.  

Following our final swim at Bitter Springs we drove to the outback's most famous pub; The Daly Waters Pub.  Now, when pondering something that is quintessentially 'Australian', it is difficult to ignore this place once you have been here.  It would have to be the most laid back, yet uniquely set up places I have ever seen.  Everywhere you look the place is adorned with all manners of used clothing, different currency denominations, sports jerseys, old tools, used thongs, hats, business cards, ID cards and the list goes on.  It really is a sight you must see.  One thing is for sure, the Australian culture of light-hearted larrikin-ism and "She'll be right mate" is alive and well here.  

Apparently, when one visits this place one must order the very famous "Beef n Barra" meal.  So popular is this delicacy, that the earliest sitting we could book in for was at 7:00pm.  The wait was worth it though.  The meal was delicious.  

The entertainment for the evening was an elderly gentleman playing all of the "hits" from the 60s.  As we were about to leave Ebony decided that she was going to don her dancing shoes and tear up the dance floor.  She was the only one there dancing, but EVERYONE was watching.  At the end of the song the applause erupted and the beaming eyes and ecstatic smile convinced mum and dad to let her continue her routine for a couple more songs.  Soon enough, a few more toddlers joined her and she enjoyed her time in the limelight.  A great night.  

The following day we awoke, packed up and left for King Ash Bay; just outside Borroloola.  The campgrounds are run by the fishing club and there isn't a lot to do but rest, relax and unwind; unless you have a boat.  The area draws many a keen fisherman every year and there are weekly competitions at the bar for the largest fish of different species.  

Whilst there we drove to the town of Borroloola and checked out the Museum there.  The history of this place is interesting and it holds the record of the oldest police station in the Northern Territory.  The museum is run by volunteers and tales of hardship experienced by the men and women don the walls and displays.  The most interesting exhibit at the museum was that of Ludwig  Leichart's tree, which was cut down in Cooktown and transported to Borroloola in 1986.  

While we were in town we decided to go to the primary school there; only out of curiosity.  As a teacher, it is always interesting and refreshing to learn from others' practice.    The Assistant Principal kindly gave us a tour of the school and we enjoyed visiting all of the different classrooms and seeing the students learn.  Apparently as a principal you get 6 months holiday every 2 years of working there...  

The rest of the time at King Ash Bay was spent fishing, relaxing and playing with Ebony.  Not having a boat was a severe hinderance, but I managed to catch several catfish.  I doubt that there would be many barramundi near the campground.  Still, the relaxed atmosphere was very enjoyable.  

Today we left early to make the trek to Barkly Homestead for a night before a few nights at Mt. Isa where we will be meeting up with my parents.  The drive through the Tablelands Highway was a difficult one at times with most of it being a single lane.  The road trains coming the other way certainly don't move over for you, so you must get off the road completely.  I understand that, as it is much easier and safer for a car and caravan to do so.  However, it does get tense when you see the imposing beasts coming the other way when rounding a corner.  The road itself was of pretty poor quality and Sarah aptly likened it to a "Patchwork Quilt". 

Some parts, however, were better kept and we enjoyed the nostalgic horizon to horizon beauty of 'nothingness'.  

Tomorrow we are all very much looking forward to reuniting with the Golivers.  

More soon!