Darwin

AHHH!!!!  Civilisation! 

The thriving metropolis that is Northern Territory's capital welcomed us with a beautiful sunset over the ocean.  This is something that we Victorians are not accustomed to. In fact, to see the sun is something of a rarity during the months of May through to September some years.  

Our first night here was spent at one of the tremendous restaurants along the esplanade.  Sarah and I enjoyed a taste of Northern Territory barramundi and Ebony made use of the kids menu.  A drink as the sun set followed by a great meal was just what we needed.  It was our first night eating out since leaving home and we enjoyed not having to do dishes.  

The following morning we stocked up on supplies before taking a refreshing dip in one of the resort's three pools.  The mercury hit 34 degrees, so it was great to get in and have a swim.  Ebony certainly enjoyed herself.  

That evening we drove to the very famous Mindil Beach to check out the even more famous market there.  The Mindil Beach Markets are held every Thursday and Sunday in the evening during the dry season.  They are jam packed with a variety of crafts and souvenirs that attract literally thousands of people.  As you walk along you are treated to different forms of street entertainment; from guitars to fire dancers.  In my opinion, however, the most incredible and enjoyable aspect of these markets is the variety of food available to visitors.  Hundreds of different cultural delicacies are cooked and presented on site by stall holders and because of the sheer multitude of stalls, prices are very reasonable.  When travelling I have always enjoyed sampling different delicacies, so I was in heaven! I can't seem to decide on an absolute favourite, but the Oyster Bar's "Summer Sensation" (oyster, king prawn and smoked salmon grilled in garlic butter...OMG!) would have to be close to the top of the list.  I am certainly glad that we skipped lunch that day.  I may or may nor have skipped breakfast the next morning too.  

Our great friends, the Willisons, arrived around lunchtime the following day and it was great to see them again.  We have known these guys since we were teenagers, so it doesn't take much for the laughs and banter to begin.  Pretty soon we found ourselves at the pool with kids laughing, screaming and having a great time.  Following that "happy hour" was upon us, which continued into the evening.  

The next day we travelled to the city together to visit Crocosaurus Cove.  It is here where one can purchase a ticket to the "Cage of Death"; a transparent perspex container in which one swims and the operators plunge said container into a saltwater crocodile enclosure.  Sounds like fun, right? There were a few budding tourists who had the experience while we were there, but being the dry season the crocs just weren't that active.  Still, the thought of the only thing separating you and a 5.5m, 700kg saltwater crocodile being a 20mm bit of perspex is......scary to say the least.  

While at the Cove we got to hold a baby crocodile, which the kids just loved doing and also got to feed some young ones.  The young ones actually jump out of the water to grab a piece of meat that is suspended on a string at the end of a pole that you have to hold.  This is why they call it "Fishing for Crocs".  

One other attraction at the Cove was a fish feeding presentation where, funnily enough, they feed a variety of fish.  During this presentation the hostess gave Ebony the opportunity to feed an Archer Fish. So aptly named is this fish as it shoots streams of water at a variety of bugs and insects in order to make them drop to the surface of the water where they can be consumed.  Unfortunately, while Ebony was holding the morsel of food for the Archer Fish she sat directly in the firing line and was sprayed with water.  The resulting chaos is depicted below.  

The next day we were keen to check out some of the unfortunate aspects of Darwin's history; the Bombing and Tracy.  

The first stop was at the Darwin Military Museum where they have a tremendous interactive display of what occurred here during the second World War.  Unbeknown to us, there were a total of 64 raids on the Northern Territory alone and more than 100 in Northern Australia over a 20 month campaign by the Japanese.  I had only really thought that there was the single event on 19th February, 1942.  Emotions were stirred as we read about the brave men and women from both sides who fought and defended.   While I enjoy reading and learning about history I always find the controversy and atrocities surrounding war difficult to process.  The museum has an excellent collection of military memorabilia including weapons, uniforms and even vehicles.  

After a quick stop at a nearby park to give the kids a runaround we headed for the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory.  Entry here is free, which is certainly something that you don't see very often these days.  Both the museum and the art gallery are extremely well maintained and the exhibit on Cyclone Tracy was informative.  There was also exhibitions on the evolution of different plants and animals that inhabit the sea as well as taxidermist prepared local flora and fauna.  This place is well worth a look and I wish we had more time to spend there.  

            An aerial photo of Darwin after Cyclone Tracy had hit.  

That evening we convinced our friends to visit the Mindil Beach Market and we were more than happy to go too.  It was a good thing that we skipped lunch that day...

The final day in Darwin was spent stocking up on supplies for the next two weeks and a nice, refreshing dip in the pool.  We have really enjoyed Darwin, but Sarah and I are looking forward to getting back to nature and completing some bushwalks again.  The sound of Australia's largest and heritage listed national park is calling.  Onward to Kakadu! 

 

Challenge 5

There wasn't a challenge set for Bomber in Katherine, but he had a blast exploring the area. 

A bit of random trivia for Mr. J, although you probably already know this.  Cadel Evans was born in Katherine. 

In Litchfield the challenge was set for Bomber to conquer a termite mound.  

Have a look at this photo and tell me if you think he could climb it?

He couldnt climb it so we had to throw him over the top!

Katherine and Litchfield

Katherine and Litchfield

The last six days could arguably be the most relaxing and awe inspiring yet.  I say this because we have been, yet again, treated to some more examples of stunning and jaw-dropping natural wonder.  

The morning after arriving in Katherine we drove to Nitmiluk National Park to check out the gorge there.  A work colleague of mine had suggested we do the breakfast cruise there, but we were out of luck this time.  Thanks for the recommendation anyways Miss Doelcm ;) We did, however, book a 2 hour cruise along the first two gorges on the Katherine River. We were interested in hiring a canoe and paddling our own way up the gorge, but alas, nobody under the age of 5 is allowed in the canoes.  The upside to this was that children under 5 get on the cruise boats for free!

The cruise was scheduled to leave at midday, so we had enough time to suit Ranger Ebony into her backpack and complete the Baruwei Walk, which takes you to a viewing platform above the first gorge.  The walk itself wasn't strenuous and we were back within an hour.  

A quick lunch at the cafe and we boarded our cruise boat for out tour.  The tour took us along the first gorge before we had to disembark, walk about 500m and then board another boat to traverse the second gorge.  All the way along our guide, nicknamed Oyster....., gave us the history of the gorge as well as some insights into the culture of the local indigenous people.  Oyster kept us all interested and entertained with his jokes, stories and knowledge of the gorge.  He had a moustache that even Merv Hughes would envy!

   

In the dry season (current) the water level drops so that there are actually 13 separate gorges.  Depending on the time and funds available, you can choose to either canoe or cruise as far as you like.  In the wet season, the water rises so much that the gorge becomes one continuous body of water.  An interesting fact is that at peak flooding times there is enough water flowing down the Katherine river to fill Sydney Harbour in 9 minutes.  Fascinating! 

The sheer cliffs, pristine water and serenity of the gorge was amazing.  Every turn the boat took was met with "oohs" and "aahs" from the tourists.  Even Ebony seemed to marvel at the enormity of the place.  

The good thing about visiting Katherine in the dry season is that there is a severely reduced risk of an encounter with an estuarine crocodile.  We did, however, get a chance to see some of the much more timid and considerably smaller freshwater variety of crocodile.  

The tour was certainly well-worth it and we thanked our esteemed guide, Oyster, for his time.  

On the way back to town we dropped in to see Marksy, a friend of my parents.  Marksy runs a bush tucker dinner in Katherine for six months of the year.  We had a chat for a good 20 minutes and I was intrigued at his set up. Everything he cooks for his dinner is inspired by locally available spices, herbs and fruits and the menu he was describing to me was something I would only hear on Masterchef!   Marksy only uses camp ovens and fire; no gas or electricity.  It is a shame we couldn't actually have dinner there.  

The rest of the time at Katherine was either spent in the pool or stocking up on supplies. We were keen to get to Litchfield as the weather was looking hot and the thought of swimming at some of the country's most beautiful waterfalls and rockholes was sounding lovely.  

We awoke the next morning, packed up and hit the road by 7:30am.  It is just as well we did, because the campground at Wangi (One-gee) Falls was almost full by the time we got there.  Luckily, we were able to find a sheltered spot vacant and we subsequently set up.  For the rest of the day, and the time we were camped at Wangi Falls, there was a constant stream of caravans and motorhomes entering with high hopes and leaving looking either angered or dejected.  It is certainly a very popular place to stay.  

The roads into Litchfield were lined with shrubs and palm trees.  We had become accustomed to the natural beauty of open skies and little vegetation, but one thing was for sure: We had reached the tropical north!  11:00 that morning the temperature gauge was already at 26 degrees.  

Ebony went down for a nap after lunch and I took the opportunity to have a look at the falls.  Wow...just wow!  Such an amazing place!  I couldn't believe that people were actually allowed to swim here.  Needless to say, the afternoon was spent doing just that! The falls in Litchfield flow all year round and I can only imagine what they must look like in the wet season.  

That evening, after a delectable home made pizza dinner, I set about making an itinerary for the following two days.  Once the draft was complete I submitted it for review by the Minister for War and Finance.  Approval was received quickly, so I was able to relax for the rest of the evening. 

The following morning began with a little bit of 4 wheel driving and bushwalking to check out Sandy Creek Falls.  You are allowed to swim at the falls, but we had reserved aquatic activities for the afternoon, so we walked back to the car and drove to Blythe Homestead.  

The drive in involved a couple of small river crossings which had water lapping at the doors.  Good fun!  The homestead is now but a ruin, but the history of the Sargent Family is well documented there.  There are some excerpts of writings by the children who used to live in the homestead and one tells of how they had to treat a crushed and broken hand of their 8 year old sibling at the time.  This was back in the early 1900s, so there was no such thing as medical aid let alone anaesthetic.  There is also a now closed tin mine behind the homestead that you can walk to.  

Another couple of river crossings and some sandy driving later we arrived in the Lost City.  The early, intrepid explorers could be forgiven for thinking this remarkable series of rock formations actually was an ancient city.  Only the nerdy will get this and I apologise, but as I walked through the Lost City I was reminded of the Final Fantasy series, so I was sure that a rock golem or something was hiding somewhere...maybe a chocobo?  Once I had ensured that all available hidden Gil was found, we headed back to the van for lunch.  

After lunch we ventured to the Buley Rock Holes and Florence Falls for a swim.  The Buley Rock Hole car park was full, so we went to Florence first.  A short, 1.1km walk down a flight of 135 stairs took us to a lovely waterhole with cascading waterfalls.  After a swim we decided to chance the Buley Rockholes again and we were lucky enough that people were beginning to leave.  Buley turned out to be a great little spot for a swim with plenty of room.  Ebony was very keen on exploring and she had a blast.  She spied a group of kids jumping from one of the ledges into the water and insisted that her turn was next.  Ummm.... 2 year old jumping from a two metre high ledge into water??  Kudos for having the guts to want to, but I think not!  

That evening we were both in bed by 8:30pm.  The end of a hectic, but awesome day.  

The mercury was forecast to reach low 30s the following day, so a morning walk was in order.  We decided on the Cascades to the north of where we were staying.  There wasn't a lot if information about the place, but we thought that we would chance it anyways.  Well, I am certainly glad we did.  After a 1.5km hike up and in we were rewarded with a magnificent series of rock holes flowing down and ending in a sweet little waterfall and rock hole.  The walk in wasn't strenuous, but it was difficult to navigate the steep and slippery sections with the backpack.  I guess that made the rockholes at the end of the walk that little more rewarding.  

The place was just so inviting, that we decided to head back after lunch for a swim.  It was just great exploring the waterfall and rockholes there.  The fact that the Cascades are a little bit further from Batchelor made it so that there were very few people swimming there.  In fact we had the area to ourselves for considerable time; our own little slice of paradise.    

Litchfield would have to be one of the best places we have visited so far on our trip.  Sarah rates it as her number 1.  Swimming in and exploring some of the most amazing and beautiful waterholes and waterfalls was just spectacular.  It will be something that we remember for a long time.  We will be back, that's for sure!  

This morning we said a rather sombre farewell to Litchfield and made the trek to Darwin where we will stay for the next 6 nights.  Our good friends Tan and Dave will be here in a couple of days and we are very much looking forward to the reunion!  

More soon! 

  

Alice Springs Part 2 and The Karlu Karlu

The morning after our adventures in the West MacDonnell Ranges was met with a cool breeze, another beautiful sunrise and slight muscle fatigue.  Not enough to deter us from more adventures that lay ahead. Breakfast, teeth and preparation complete, we jumped in the Prado and headed east.

The East MacDonnell Ranges have a reputation for holding their own in terms of beauty and majesty.  It does, however, hold only partial popularity to its Western counterpart and this was evident in just how little traffic we saw for the whole day.  This was, by no stretch of the imagination, cause for complaint as it was nice to have many of the attractions to ourselves for the time we were there.

First stop was Central Australia's first town; Arltunga Historic Reserve.  The drive took us 110km east of Alice Springs to a very remote area.  So remote in fact that it wasn't hard to see why Arltunga was now in ruins.  Founded on the prospect of nothing other than the possibility of striking it rich with Gold, the mines in the area lasted until the early 1900s.  The remains of this once lively community tell a tale of hardship and really opitimise the "Tough Australian Outback".  The lack of water and resources to the area would have certainly made life tough for the few who chanced their luck here.

Some of the buildings still standing, although derelict, include the Assay Office and Residence, Managers Residence and Cyanide Works where gold was extracted from quartz.  The difference between the dwellings of Government officials and miners really highlights the unfairness of life back then.  We had a great time exploring the ruins and there was also a couple of mines that you could enter and explore.  The ladders to get into these mines were just that little too challenging for our two year old explorer, so Sarah and I took turns with a head torch each to venture in and climb out before claustrophobia got the better of us.  How the miners managed to work in those conditions is truly baffling.  

We bid our farewell to Arltunga and made the trek to N'Dhala Gorge.  The road in is for 4wd only, so I enjoyed shaking the Prado up a bit on the way in and out.  I was hoping for a bit of low range action, but no such luck.  Ebony, bless her cotton socks, slept through the entire bumpy 16km road into the gorge.  She was still snoring soundly when we arrived, so Sarah was happy to wait in the car while I completed the 30 minute return walk.  

The walk was very easy, especially that I was now 15kg lighter than last walk.  Along the way there are a number of ancient petroglyphs and explanations for each.  It is believed that some could be up to 10 000 years old.  Thinking that Ebony was probably awake and hearing a slight rumble from the mid riff, I returned to the car to find Ebony running around the car park as happy as Larry.  

After a brief lunch with Sarah, Eb and about 20 flies, we set off to Trephina Gorge to tackle to the gorge walk there.  It was here that Ranger Ebony came to our aid.  

The conversation went something like this:

Me: Ebony, can you help mum and dad so that we don't get lost?

Ebony:  Yes dad

Me: Ok, I want you to keep an eye out for orange arrows.  OK?  If you see any you make sure that you let mum or dad know. 

Ebony:  OK dad.

Me: Can you see any orange arrows?

Ebony: No. I see orange triangles dad.

Me:........

When you look at it...she has a point.

Me: OK Ebony, can you see any orange triangles?

Ebony: There!

Me: Where?

Ebony: There dad! (Pointing to the triangle/arrow)

      50 metres along

Ebony: There!

Me: Where?

Ebony: There dad! (Pointing to the triangle/arrow)

This continued for most of the walk.  It was a fun game to play and she loved making sure that we didn't get lost. 

After leaving Trephina Gorge we made a quick stop into Emily and Jessie Gaps before returning to the van late afternoon.  A BBQ tea and a chat with some friends made the day another splendid one.  

The following morning marked the beginning of the last day of our stay in Alice Springs. After a recommendation from a friend to visit Palm Valley in the Finke River National Park we decided to explore there.  The Park is 140km from Alice Springs and 4wd is necessary for the last 12km or so.  

We began the morning with the Kalarranga Lookout walk, which takes you atop one of the western peaks overlooking the natural amphitheatre there.  It was a good way to get the heart going again and the views were stunning.  

From there we made the drive into Palm Valley.  It is the last 4km of this road that are the most interesting and I was finally able to engage low range for a bit of rock crawling.  

We decided on the Mpulungkinya Walk (yes...I had to check the spelling on that...twice...) which is a 5km track that takes you over one of the eastern ridges and through the centre alongside all of the palm trees.  The beauty of this place is in its palm trees; certainly not something you would expect to find in the outback and it is home to the red cabbage palm; a rare species.  Seeing the forest of palm trees alongside the red outback stone walls was amazing.  The nearest palm tree is over 850km away in Lorne Hill National Park, QLD; where we are meeting my parents next month.  

Ranger Ebony was in fine form once again ever focussed on finding blue triangles this time.  Unfortunately the toll of keeping mum and dad on track proved too much for her by the end of the trek.  

Once back in the Prado we headed out of the park.  About half way out we came just centimetres from being cleaned up by a driver heading towards us travelling at excessive speeds.  He started losing control and the tail end of his car slid out towards the driver's side of the Prado (that's me!) as he passed us.  A quick gasp and check for our vital signs followed by a chain of expletives and profanity that I won't disgust you all with happened in what seemed like ages, but was probably more like 5 seconds.  The driver sped off in the other direction before I could catch his number plate.  A good reminder that there is really never an excuse for driving like that....NEVER! 

Angered, but thinking about what lottery numbers I might chose when reception returned, I drove out of the park and back to the van.  By the time we returned, the mood had lifted and we became excited at the prospect of heading north to the Karlu Karlu, or Devils Marbles then on to Katherine.   

The alarm sounded nice and early and we were on the road soon enough. A quick stop by the car wash to rid the Expanda of some of the red dirt and we were back on the Stuart Highway headed for Karlu Karlu.  Along the way we made a brief stop at Wycliffe Well; the UFO capital of Australia.  Another quirk of the Australian Outback and the artwork certainly shows how they are capitalising on the fame and reputation of the place.  The inside of the shop was filled with a plethora of Alien and UFO related merchandise.  I added to my stubby holder collection and, after a quick bit to eat, we moved to the Devils Marbles. 

We had gotten there early enough to get a spot right near a fire pit, which was lucky because by 3pm the place was full and there were a lot of either dejected or angry caravanners arriving and subsequently leaving the camping area.  

By nightfall we had explored the area, which was amazing in itself, eaten a lovely dinner and sat down by the fire to toast some marshmallows with Ebony; she loved it.  Those of you who know her will know that she NEVER sits still (like her dad...).  Well, she sat there mesmerised and fixated on the constant flicker and warmth of the fire for a good length of time.  It was another nice family moment. 

Once Eb was in bed Sarah and I used the rest of the roadside wood that we had collected and enjoyed a drink together.  I thought that the stars at Kings Canyon were amazing, but they  have NOTHING on this place.  The fact that there was no moon that evening made for a truly spectacular light show.  I chanced a couple of photos on "bulb", but just couldn't quite nail the right settings to capture the natural beauty.  It is strange that the two most enjoyable nights in the van for the trip have both been "off the grid".  

Today we bid the Karlu Karlu farewell right on dusk and began the longest day of driving for our trip; a total of 779km to Katherine.  We made it here with minimal fuss and (cue jealous rage from fellow Victorians) the mercury tipped 29 degrees on arrival.  Of course, we set up and took Ebony for a quick swim in the pool.  I am very much looking forward to exploring Nitmiluk National Park here tomorrow.  

More soon!